I just came back from Iraqi Kurdistan, staying most of my time in Erbil, a city very close to Mosul, which was Isis Headquarter until few years ago…

Is it safe to travel to Iraq?

This is the $1,000,000 question that any adventurous traveler wonders at least once in his or her’s life. The answer is: ”it depends”.

For a long time Iraq has had an negative reputation in the media and around the World for its safety issues.

The thread of ISIS

Starting with the Iraq-Iran war in 1980, to the Saddam Hussein Gulf conflict (where Saddam Hussein gassed 5,000 Kurds in Halabja etc.) and then the current civil war now after the USA invasion, where the bloodthirsty Islamic State appeared in the country..

I admit it, it doesn’t sound as the best travel destination! But the reality is different.

I stayed most of my time in Erbil in Iraqi Kurdistan. Erbil is the most modern place in the region, guarded by the legendary Peshmerga. Therefore from a safety point of view, the entire region can be classified as relatively safe.

If you take a look at the maps below, you will see the evolution of the ISIS territory.

As you can see, from 2014 to 2017, ISIS was, basically, bordering Iraqi Kurdistan.

In July 2017, the Iraqi forces took Mosul back, so the region got safer than ever.

Loads of checkpoints

There are loads of checkpoints across all cities and roads, where they will ask for your passport and, occasionally, they will even check the car.

As a Western foreigner, I didn’t have any troubles, but once I was traveling by taxi with an Arab man, and the Peshmergas (Kurdish soldiers) took my driver out for 10 minutes at least. They found him suspicious in their eyes. They basically question everything here, which is a good thing to prevent terrorist attacks.

Is Kurdistan safe? What is it like to travel there?

When I went walking to Erbil’s citadel, I couldn’t believe what my eyes saw: Kids playing football in the streets, nice cafés and terraces and everybody seemed to have a happy, normal life.

Didn’t see any tourists though on my 10 km solo walk around the city, but I was quite shocked when I saw a local Kurdish guy with a beer in his hand. I would personally never drink in the streets in a muslim country, as I respect the country’s rules as a guest, but this little episode showed me that Kurdistan is one of the most liberal and open-minded parts of the Middle East, that follows a similar lifestyle to Lebanon.

The airport security is extreme

I had never before seen such a degree of airport security. Only Israel comes close!

From the moment I left the city until the moment I boarded the plane, I passed through over 10 different checkpoints. I had to get out at three checkpoints and they checked everything inside the car with police dogs and with all the guys armed.

Cars and buses couldn’t go to the departure or arrival terminal, so I had to walk the last part myself.

Should you visit Iraqi Kurdistan?

Even if you go with a friend or you go solo like me, you should! Yes, there’s a risk involved when you’re going to a country like Iraq, but there’s a risk anywhere in the World! And the risk here in Kurdistan is very low.

With a huge touristic potential, impressive landscapes, a deep history, and some of the most hospitable people you’ll ever find, Kurdistan is a must-visit destination. Just go!

– Gustav

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