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What Is It Really Like To Travel WEST AFRICA Solo? (No Car) - gus1thego
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Adventure

What Is It Really Like To Travel WEST AFRICA Solo? (No Car)

Posted on December 3, 2019

Many travelers will tell you West Africa is the toughest part of the World to travel solo. I traveled West Africa solo over several months, just me and my back-pack, no own car/motorbike and with 0 flights on my trip from Senegal and all the way to Togo. Here’s what it was really like!

Lost 7 kg and reached Togo.. Senegal to Togo, MADE IT!

West Africa Is Forgotten?

On the hunt for wild chimpanzees in Liberia.. Joined by a corrupt police officer

Traveling for the sake of traveling and seeing as much of this kaleidoscope of a world we all live in is about the only reason most of us ever need to travel. Variation is always the inspiration for me. It’s amazing how different (and of course similar) life is across the globe. It’s a great feeling to know this first hand and at least get a foot on each of the World’s major regions. With this in mind, West Africa with all its mystic, alluring place names and sense of adventure is somewhere ignored… or perhaps just tucked away in a corner, way off any round-the-world ticket and just waiting to be explored.

Dangers of West Africa?

In a small village with wild crocodiles in Burkina Faso

For most English speaking travelers it’s way down the list. Let’s be fair, it’s hot, on the whole comparably expensive (flights, visas) and with few noteworthy attractions. What you’ll read about West Africa – the crime, malaria, disease, conflicts, poverty, corruption and lack of infrastructure – might also worry you to a certain extent. Having noted all this, many are still very much attracted to the region and what they imagine will be a lot of virgin ground, few travelers and many of those friendly African smiles you’ll encounter. For me traveling West Africa solo has been one of the greatest adventure travels ever!

Lots of Challenges On The Way

Getting my back fixed in Gambia for 0,30 dollars.. Lots of challenges on the way

Traveling West Africa solo with no car over a long period of time will bring you a lot of challenges. Cars will most certainly break down, there’s always complications of getting around, basic facilities, lack of tourist infrastructure, etc., and from a budget independent travel perspective is on the whole not fun, not easy, not cheap and certainly no picnic. But.. Traveling West Africa has been one of my favorite travels this year. I have been to more than 130 countries in total, and this year I have visit +40 countries (new and old ones,) but West Africa stands out as something really special to me. Maybe because it was the most challenging trip, where I also lost 7kg, but also because of many other things. This trip was memorable!

Most Scary Incidents of My Life

With a Police Officer from Mali, the day after a terrorist attack where 140 people were killed 30 km away from me

I will honestly never forget this West Africa trip, both for the good and for the bad. A big terrorist attack in Mali, a near-death experience (read the story here!) and getting caught in the middle of shootings and explosions in Liberia (read here!,) but I will also remember West Africa for so much good stuff.

So Cool – No Tourists Around?!

Kambadaga Falls in the middle of Guinea.. One of the most beautiful waterfalls I’ve seen!

Tell me one other region in the World, where you’ll hardly meet any other tourists? There are very few people traveling in West Africa. Not a great place to go if you want to meet other people, but if you want the most unique adventures, it’s a perfect place to go. Like being the only tourist at the Kambadaga Falls, after riding a motorbike for hours through some very difficult jungle terrain with terrible roads. So rewarding!

The Hardest Area In The World To Travel?

Stunning views over Freetown, capital of Sierra Leone

Let me be honest with you, West Africa is the hardest area I’ve traveled in. I still remember crossing from Guinea-Bissau to Guinea after a bumpy ride through the jungle on a tree platform in the middle of nowhere during the night. The story is here: The Scariest Border Crossing From Guinea Bissau To Guinea

Closing in on Mali.. Always two guys on 1 seat in West Africa

It didn’t make it much easier to not have my own car, but having to jump on trucks, shared cars, mini busses etc. I loved the adventure in that and getting to live 100% like a local West African-citizen, but to be fair you’re packed in like no where else. I remember we sat 2 guys and a kid on the front seat next to the driver when crossing into Mali, and I had the shift in between my legs, so the driver had his hand in between my legs most of the ride and it was so painful with so little space. My back hurt! In West Africa the car/bus leave when it’s FULL, not one minute before.. And you can always squeeze in one extra person!

Some places the roads are good, some places the roads are bad and some places the roads are non-existent.

What Is Good To Know In West Africa?

Only person at Banfora Cascades Waterfalls in Burkina Faso

1: French Speakers

Remember they speak French in most of the West African countries. I spoke absolutely zero French before coming here, but I taught myself a bit a long the way, because it is very helpful to speak in West Africa. Very few people in the Francophone countries speak English. Now, even with reasonable French, it can be quite hard to get a bottle of water! You can still survive without speaking French (I did,) but I must admit it would’ve been pretty helpful to speak a bit. But again, I learned the necessary on the road as always.

Speaking a bit of French now in Grand-Bassam, Ivory Coast

2: Avoid Scams – Be Patient

I’m very proud to say I didn’t get scammed in West Africa (on a large scale), first of all because I’ve spent a long time in Africa and I know when to be patient and when to be mad, and I make sure to always know the price before I buy anything, because if there’s no price list it can happen sellers will try to charge you a huge amount of money. I have written a really helpful guide on: How To Avoid 7 Scams In Africa

Taking a cap in Abidjan, Ivory Coast

3: Rip Off

Don’t get me wrong, I’ve met so many lovely people in West Africa. But the problem in some countries/areas is that you’ll meet police or people who wants to rip you off. Behind this is the culture of ‘the rich SHOULD give to the poor’. So if you’re asked for 2 dollars for water, it’s not seen as a rip off, just rebalancing the money distribution. If you are on a tight budget you will have to work pretty hard to get the right price on things. I remember taking a photo of a flag pole in Ivory Coast that a local Ivorian guy had just taken seconds before me without any problems. When I took the photo the police yelled “no, no, no!” and took me to the Police Station for 5 hours, where I had to talk to so many different Police Officers.. I kept my patience and explained myself well, and therefore I managed to not pay anything. You’ll most likely meet cops, who are like ‘Devils in Uniform’ who’ll try to rip you off in any way possible, but as long as you’re not scared and keep your cool, you can manage situations like this. It’s a patience game.

I try to always agree a price before I go anywhere! On a motorbike in Togo

4: Bring Cash

There are plenty of working ATMs, but don’t rely on everyone in every town to work. Bring a big amount of cash reserves with you. The CFA currency is used almost everywhere in West Africa and it really cuts down hassle.

No ATM’s here.. On my way to the Kinkon River in Guinea

5: Be Happy And Enjoy

The real West Africa, the music, age old traditions, dances, mystique and big smiles. West Africa is an experience in itself. Go with a positive attitude and don’t let delays or anything destroy your mood. When being in West Africa you just have to go with the flow, and see what the day brings. Be happy and enjoy!

Chilling with a nice family in English-speaking Ghana

Ready To Travel West Africa?

Accra, Ghana

You’re now ready to travel West Africa. To be fair, it’s an adventure of a life-time and I honestly hope I’m able to do it again one day, because I made some memories I’ll never forget on this trip, both good and bad, but I still get a big smile on my face when I think about how raw and cool it was to travel West Africa solo.

Gustav

gus1thego.com

 

 

 


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