The Number 1 Thing About Bamako (Mali)

Mali is currently not in a good state to say the least, and there was a big terrorist attack not far from where I was on my second day here, which was really sad, but there are still lots of positive things about the country and the capital, Bamako.

Mali Travel Advisory – US Government

The US Government has put a 4 on their travel advisory level, which is highest danger, which means do NOT travel to Mali at the moment, because there have been some really ugly incidents recently with kidnappings of Westerners, bombings, massacres and more..

The Capital Bamako

Bamako is the capital of Mali and is also the largest city with 2 million people. The place is near the famous Niger River. Located between the Sahara to the north and the Gulf of Guinea to the south, Bamako is very hot on average all year round with the hottest months being March, April, and May.

I wasn’t freezing during my time in Bamako! +40°C was the standard

Is Bamako All Bad And Dangerous?

No, Bamako is not all bad and dangerous. There are so many reasons to visit this city also. I agree it’s maybe not the best time to go to Bamako right now, but the capital still has a lot to offer.

Seydou, one of my new friends in Bamako, Mali

The People

Mali is the 4th poorest country in the world (UN Human Development Index). In Bamako and in Mali in general people is primarily Muslim, but there are also significant populations of Christians and animists. French is the official language and Bambara is the most widely spoken.

Women wear long skirts but arms, chests and heads are regularly exposed.

Colorful Malian ladies in a village outside of Bamako

Malians are poor and most people live for less than 1 dollar a day. No medical care, little to no access to education, weak infrastructure – But sometimes when you know the feeling of having nothing, that’s when you become more open-minded, wanting to share more with people..

I had the most from people who had the least to be fair!

Bamako might have people who wants to take advantage of you, but is also full of incredible kindness, hospitality and curiosity.

Two Malian guys chiling at a local market, Bamako

One thing I found interesting here was the fact that a lot of families practice polygamy. A man will live with 2-3 wives in a large compound, a hut or a small house with all their children. In Senegal it was 4 out of 10 men, who lived as polygamists and here probably around the same if not more.

The Sights

Bamako is a sprawling city through which the river Niger flows. On one end of the city is a hill formation (supposed to be an extinct volcano?) on which the President’s Palace is located. You start driving up the hill, you leave the hustle and bustle of the city, enter into green surroundings and the roads are great.

Bamako is not a knock out sightseeing city. There is no must see location, but I still found some very cool places here and even though it’s a large, noisy, crowded city, it has its charms.

Monument de l”Independance, Bamako, Mali

I really liked to see the crazy and colorfol Bamako City Center market. A great, vibrant and hectic experience, even though a bus smashed really hard into a car few meters away from me. Scary! The bus drove away right after leaving the car smashed and the car owner shocked and speechless. Not cool…

3 Best Sights In Bamako

My favorite places in Bamako to visit are: Monument de l”Independance, Bamako Grand Mosque and of course the obvious Bamako highlight, Le Campement.

Morning swim at Le Campement. So cool and you have it all by yourself!

The way to Le Campement was great, if you choose the bumpy, little used but well signposted road taking you through rural areas directly to the foot of the 3rd bridge. You’ll pass trough rarely visited villages, beautiful green countryside and have some excellent views over fields, canals and mountain side villages.

Views over The Grand Mosque, Bamako

Having been all around the city of Bamako and the small neighborhoods, the city villages and their people are the real sights of this colorful city. In the suburbs you can see so many things, visit potters, blacksmiths, tailors and and colorful local markets or just grab a cup of tea and watch the daily life of a vibrant township pass by before your eyes. And if you stop for a look there, you will be met by big smiles and respect.

Bamako is all about the colors!

The Number 1 Thing About Bamako

It could have been the food, which is pretty amazing and cheap here, but IT’S NOT.

Malian Breakfast by the hands

I like the Malian breakfast, which was a bit different to my oatmeal with raisins back in Denmark, I really liked the extremely cheap grilled meat sticks you can get on every street corner too and then ofc. the Timbuktu Toukassou. Yummy!

Timbuktu Toukassou. So good!

But food wasn’t what I liked the most about Bamako, even though it was up there among the best things. The thing I liked the most, and I actually can’t remember one capital city I’ve been to around the World, where this thing was so common and easy: Free motorbike rides.

Free Motorbike Rides (THE BEST THING)

I’ve done at least 30+ free motorbike rides during my time in Bamako.

Free motorbike ride in Bamako

I quickly found out the traffic here was really bad quiet early during my stay and there were so many people on their motorbikes, who drove past the queues of the cars easily. So what I usually did to beat the traffic was just jumping on random motorbikes. How in the world was that possible?

Crossed the Niger River several times a day. That was so easy to do!

It was so super easy here actually. I just pointed with my hand in which direction I was going to go, and the drivers then nodded if they were going that way, or showed with their hand they were going in another direction. I usually didn’t wait for more than 30 seconds before having a ride ready and no one did ever ask me for money after I said: “Merci beaucoup pour le voyage de mon ami.” / Thanks for the ride my friend.

People in Bamako loves to help you with a free ride

Excuse Moi?

My French is extremely limited, so don’t be afraid to do the same. It’s all about the attitude.

Even when I came back from hiking in Malian mountains several hours outside of Bamako, I had free rides, after our bus crashed down in the middle of nowhere, which by the way happens way too often in West Africa.. I even had some gifts on the free motor bikes in Bamako and a lot of appreciation. You probably wouldn’t get that in Bangkok, Manila or in any major European city. In these places most people would look strange at you or ask you to pay as much as possible, worst case even try to scam you.

In Bamako, it’s a different story.

– Gustav

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Why You Should Go To Senegal

Are you considering to visit Africa and maybe a little scared of the big continent?

I have spent a big part of my life on the African continent and it’s my favourite continent to travel, because it’s the 100% most adventurous.

Picture from my stay with the Banna Tribe in the Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Africa Feeling

I always felt a particular affection for Africa. Since childhood, I’ve been incredibly interested in its culture and history; I listen to African music daily (afro pop, bongo flavour) and have a big African bucket list and generally feel connected to this huge and complex continent. But the truth is, I did not meet many people who shared this interest. Most of my friends dreamed about places like Paris or New York, not remote African towns. Many tourists want to feel comfortable and it might be easier in most of the overcrowded touristy European cities, but for me the most unique travel experiences are found in Africa.

Abushe, my meeting with the boy with the blue eyes

There are some countries in Africa you shouldn’t start with to gain experience in traveling Africa.

And then there’s Senegal

I recommend you to start your Africa adventure with Senegal, a country with no extreme weather conditions (only in few places), acceptable facilities and the most welcoming people. These are some of my travel memories to this country, including a few suggestions and advice to go backpacking Senegal.

Senegal is not a country to see, but rather to experience.

Dakar, Senegal

Useful Information

Languages: French and Wolof.
Religion: mostly Muslim population (however, it feels like a “more open“ version of Islam, in which women have a fairly active role).
Money: the unit of currency is the West African CFA franc (1 € = around 656 CFA).
Weather: Senegal’s peak season goes from December to May when the weather is pleasant and warm. The rainy/wet season normally begins in July and ends in September. Temperatures are high in summer.

Senegal is a cheap country and you can go around 1 hour in taxi for 3000 CFA / 5 euros, so don’t go with anyone suggesting 10,000 CFA for a 15 minutes drive, just keep that in mind.. Taxi drivers can be douches in any country unfortunately!

But, Is it Safe to Travel to Senegal?

Unfortunately, Senegal has the stigma of insecurity and poverty as many other African countries. However, I must say during my time I spent in Senegal, I never felt the slightest threat. Obviously, bad things can happen anywhere, and you always need to be careful, watch your pockets and bags and use your common sense. I recommend not to bring anything of value you would be sad to lose, don’t carry too much cash and don’t walk alone at night in the suburbs, which I did anyways with no problem at all here!

A random guy took me to his family late at night in Zac Mbao, Senegal

Health

Make sure to get the Yellow Fever vaccination and to bring along the International certificate and proof of vaccination. They probably will not ask for it at the airport, but have it handy. It’s recommended to get vaccinated against Hepatitis A and B, Tetanus and Typhus and to take antimalarial medication.

I’m taking Vibradox malaria pills, which are actually the only malaria pills I don’t get a bad stomach with and I’m putting mosquito repellent on skin and clothes when the evening comes.

If you don’t want to take the Malaria prophylaxis, be very vigilant about not being bitten too much. A good mosquito net is key! Even if flats/hotels have their own, it is better to trust yours, with no holes.

A very good mosquito repellent did it for me though!

Backpacking Senegal: What to Visit

Dakar

The beauty of Senegal’s capital is not really in its architecture, the dusty streets or the roads collapsed by traffic: but rather in its atmosphere and cheerful people.

The best part of Dakar though is the smiling locals walk through the city wearing flashy clothes while causing a color explosion. Though it is worth a visit, the center of Dakar is definitely not the best place for a relaxing walk. In my experience, the best of Dakar is in the outskirts of the city and in the villages along the coast (like N’gor and Yoff).

N’gor, Senegal

Africa’s tallest statue

That being said, Dakar has Africa’s tallest statue made my North Korea architects, The African Renaissance Monument, which is ment to symbolize Africa’s rebirth, potential and liberation.

Africa’s tallest statue in Dakar, Senegal

A 49 meter tall bronze statue located on top of one of the twin hills known as Collines des Mamelles, which is pretty cool!

Getting asked by a Congolese family for a pic with their son at Africa’s Tallest Statue

Pink Lake (Lake Retba)

Less than an hour away from Dakar, there is an unusual lake that will surely catch your eye due to its vivid pink color: Lake Retba (or Lac Rosé). Its distinct color is caused by the Dunaliella salina algae, which is attracted by the lake’s high salt content. The algae produces a red pigment to absorb the sunlight while giving the lake its unique color. Since the algae which gives the lake its color is completely harmless to humans, swimming is possible.

When I was there it wasn’t that pink, because it depends on many factors to get this color, but it can look like this on some occasions

Pink Lake, Lake Retba, Senegal

Saint Louis

Saint Louis, the first French colony in Africa, is one of the most fascinating cities in Senegal. Located 260 km from Dakar, the heart of this old colonial city is on a narrow island over the river Senegal and linked to the African mainland by the bridge Faidherbe.

Saint Louis, Senegal

Lompoul Desert

Senegal isn’t all about mangroves and lagoons. If you venture south of St. Louis, you’ll eventually run into the Lompoul Desert. The orange-tinted dunes in the area are similar to what you’d fine in the Sahara. While there, you can take a hike over the dunes on foot or take it easy with the help of a camel.

Soft sand dunes in Lompoul Desert, Senegal

Villages visits

I was very impulsive in Senegal and went to many small villages by myself and always met Senegalese people who welcomed me to their home, eventhough my French is absolutely limited.

Staying with Amadou’s lovely family in village Tivaouane, Senegal

Language

If you can speak French, you will have no problem communicating in this country. If you don’t, remember the universal language in Senegal is the smile. You should also learn a few key phrases in Arabic and Wolof that you will hear all the time:

Salaam Aleikum (and the answer: Aleikum Saalam) > “peace be with you“

Nan ga deff? > “how are you?“, you will hear this all the time and you will have to respond:

Mahn gii fii > ‘I am fine“ / “I am here“

Jarrejeff > Thank you

Nookobokk > You’re welcome

Amul solo > No problem

Wow wow > Yes

Ded ett > No

Ded ett, merci > No, thank you

Alham doulilah > Thanks be to Allah

Insh allah > Allah willing

Degguma Wolof > I don’t speak Wolof

Wall painting in Dakar, Senegal

To conclude…

Having been all around Senegal from north, central to the south of Ziguinchor, the so-called “Gate of Africa” may not be the most beautiful place on earth or a holiday destination for those seeking comfort, but it has everything for a fascinating experience as a whole.

Inside the home of a family I stayed with in Senegal, Fun when they came in the living room!

Senegal is defined by its small details: the baobabs, the teranga (hospitality of its people) and the smiles of the children that you’ll meet, who will love to talk and play with the toubabs (white).

Taking two of my hosts kids to the beach for their first time with a French friend!

You will be captivated by the colorful pirogues of the fishermen, the flashy dresses of the women, the sounds of the djembe, the endless dancing nights, the mythical sept-places (and all the stories that will happen to you inside them) and the eternal African sunsets. Even the local bus ride can be fascinating!

Love this pic from the local bus in Dakar, Senegal

I know one Senegalese guy who moved to Europe in pursuit of financial happiness. He misses Senegal, he says Europe is cold and people are not happy. He is sad, because this is not like Senegal and he is already dreaming of coming back. To be honest, I understand him.

I will miss you Senegal ❤️

With my local friend Amadou and his son. Amazing hospitality!

See you next time….

– Gustav

gus1thego.com

Follow me on Instagram @gustavrosted