My biggest regret from my first visit to Ethiopia was I didn’t go to Harar to see the wild hyenas. Or see wasn’t actually enough, I wanted to feed them by the mouth, as scary as it sounds!
Are Hyenas Dangerous?
Let’s get things straight, a hyena is not a dog or a cat or like your average pet.. Last time I saw hyenas were in the bush in Tanzania where they were tearing an animal totally apart on a safari. From my experiences one of the most dangerous sounds you might hear in the bush is the laughter – the laugh of a hyena, when it signals its excitement when it has found food. Then you usually know someone is going to die soon..
Mystical Connection Between Human And Hyenas?
It turns out the tradition of feeding wild hyenas in Harar dates back decades. They used to leave food offerings in the hills, so the hyenas wouldn’t eat the livestock in times of drought. Out of a sudden someone had the bright idea of luring the hyenas to the old city of Harar and then feeding them there.. So cool!
I found the mysterious place around 7 in the evening by incident, when I heard some crazy yelling. My local friend said it was the ‘Hyena Man’ and told me he was calling the hyenas to come and eat. I said: “Okay, let’s go and check it out..” We went close to the ‘Hyena Man,’ and the scream he made was so loud that we had to move away from him after 2-3 times of screaming. The yell sounded so crazy and funny, would’ve made a decent ringtone or alarm waking you up on a rainy, Monday morning.. That sound!
The Hyenas Started To Come
I was there as the only person with my local friend. The ‘Hyena Man” was now sitting with the hyenas circling around him. Brave guy who calls out to the hyenas every night and then feed them with scraps of meat. One local guy came to me and said that one time a hyena bit the ‘Hyena Man’ in the face and that they could be very unpredictable.. Just what I needed to hear.
It was completely dark and the first set of eyes shone in my direction, and then several more. The hyenas had arrived.
Hmmm, I thought, what the hell did you get yourself into this time Gustav?
Soon we were surrounded by several off them.
More People Started To Come
We were now around 5 tourists and lots of locals, and the ‘Hyena Man’ asked, who wants to feed the hyenas by the mouth? Nobody said anything and then I said: “I will.” A Japanese guy next to me said “good luck man,” and it was needed because hyenas have the second strongest bite of any land animal (the crocodile is number one), one can be somewhat apprehensive, especially as I was the first person there.. You never know!
I went right in the middle and had 3 of these hungry guys right behind me and then they started to get close to me. I felt like I was in the middle of a new ‘Lion King’-movie! Hyenas are not only strong, but huge as well.. I had eye contact with the biggest one and I could hear his deep, aggressive breath as he went straight to my face and took a bite of a piece of meat I had on my shoulder.
I was in the middle for some minutes and then it was the Japanese guy’s turn. He went in quickly, took a picture and then he was out again. The same with 3-4 American guys, they couldn’t get out quickly enough. I went in 7 times to the hyenas, really enjoyed their company and found it so fascinating being so close to these bush killers. I knew it was an experience I probably wouldn’t have again, so I wanted to spend as much time with them as possible. When I came out the 7th time, one Ethiopian guy said: “Bro, you’re absolutely crazy!” And asked me for my contact and called me the new Steve Irwin.. Very flattering indeed!
Goodbye Hyenas
After 45 minutes I left and wandered back in the dark with a big smile on my face. Right until I met 5 of these guys alone in the night in the streets of Harar! A bit nerve-wrecking, but fortunately nothing happened..
I love seeing wildlife, so being up close with one of Africa’s most dangerous predators was incredible. I will never forget it snapping that meat from right in front of my face.. My best kiss to this date, 100% sure!
Would you try feeding wild hyenas by the mouth?
Gustav
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