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Harar Archives - gus1thego
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Feeding Wild Hyenas By Mouth In Harar Ethiopia

My biggest regret from my first visit to Ethiopia was I didn’t go to Harar to see the wild hyenas. Or see wasn’t actually enough, I wanted to feed them by the mouth, as scary as it sounds!

Are Hyenas Dangerous?

Let’s get things straight, a hyena is not a dog or a cat or like your average pet.. Last time I saw hyenas were in the bush in Tanzania where they were tearing an animal totally apart on a safari. From my experiences one of the most dangerous sounds you might hear in the bush is the laughter – the laugh of a hyena, when it signals its excitement when it has found food. Then you usually know someone is going to die soon..

Hyenas in Harar, Ethiopia

Mystical Connection Between Human And Hyenas?

It turns out the tradition of feeding wild hyenas in Harar dates back decades. They used to leave food offerings in the hills, so the hyenas wouldn’t eat the livestock in times of drought. Out of a sudden someone had the bright idea of luring the hyenas to the old city of Harar and then feeding them there.. So cool!

I found the mysterious place around 7 in the evening by incident, when I heard some crazy yelling. My local friend said it was the ‘Hyena Man’ and told me he was calling the hyenas to come and eat. I said: “Okay, let’s go and check it out..” We went close to the ‘Hyena Man,’ and the scream he made was so loud that we had to move away from him after 2-3 times of screaming. The yell sounded so crazy and funny, would’ve made a decent ringtone or alarm waking you up on a rainy, Monday morning.. That sound!

The Hyenas Started To Come

I was there as the only person with my local friend. The ‘Hyena Man” was now sitting with the hyenas circling around him. Brave guy who calls out to the hyenas every night and then feed them with scraps of meat. One local guy came to me and said that one time a hyena bit the ‘Hyena Man’ in the face and that they could be very unpredictable.. Just what I needed to hear.

It was completely dark and the first set of eyes shone in my direction, and then several more. The hyenas had arrived.

Hmmm, I thought, what the hell did you get yourself into this time Gustav?

Soon we were surrounded by several off them.

Wild hyenas everywhere in Harar

More People Started To Come

We were now around 5 tourists and lots of locals, and the ‘Hyena Man’ asked, who wants to feed the hyenas by the mouth? Nobody said anything and then I said: “I will.” A Japanese guy next to me said “good luck man,” and it was needed because hyenas have the second strongest bite of any land animal (the crocodile is number one), one can be somewhat apprehensive, especially as I was the first person there.. You never know!

I went right in the middle and had 3 of these hungry guys right behind me and then they started to get close to me. I felt like I was in the middle of a new ‘Lion King’-movie! Hyenas are not only strong, but huge as well.. I had eye contact with the biggest one and I could hear his deep, aggressive breath as he went straight to my face and took a bite of a piece of meat I had on my shoulder.

With the biggest hyena straight in my face. Hello there!

I was in the middle for some minutes and then it was the Japanese guy’s turn. He went in quickly, took a picture and then he was out again. The same with 3-4 American guys, they couldn’t get out quickly enough. I went in 7 times to the hyenas, really enjoyed their company and found it so fascinating being so close to these bush killers. I knew it was an experience I probably wouldn’t have again, so I wanted to spend as much time with them as possible. When I came out the 7th time, one Ethiopian guy said: “Bro, you’re absolutely crazy!” And asked me for my contact and called me the new Steve Irwin.. Very flattering indeed!

Feeding a hyena by the mouth

Goodbye Hyenas

After 45 minutes I left and wandered back in the dark with a big smile on my face. Right until I met 5 of these guys alone in the night in the streets of Harar! A bit nerve-wrecking, but fortunately nothing happened..

I love seeing wildlife, so being up close with one of Africa’s most dangerous predators was incredible. I will never forget it snapping that meat from right in front of my face.. My best kiss to this date, 100% sure!

Would you try feeding wild hyenas by the mouth?

Gustav

gus1thego.com

 

 

 

5 Most Fun Things To Do In Addis Ababa

Back again for the second time in Ethiopia and for the second time in Addis Ababa, I can assure you these are the 5 most fun things to do in the Ethiopian capital, before you travel around the rest of the country.

With Abushe in Jinka, Ethiopia. Read about my days with him here

1: Africa’s Biggest Open Air Market

Mercato Market, Addis Ababa

Mercato is the biggest outdoor market not only in Addis Ababa or Ethiopia, but in the whole of Africa. The must see parts of Mercato include the Spice Market, the hand made baskets market and the second hand items market. It’s closed on Sundays, but totally alive on most of the others days. You can meet different people who come from the more than 90 tribes of Ethiopia and communicate in Amharic language. You can buy some really cheap local stuff here, bargaining for a good price is how buying/selling goes here.

2: Tomoca Coffee

I’m not the biggest fan of coffee, but this place is a must-visit in Addis Ababa. Being the oldest Coffee Shop in the capital, Tomocca Coffee serves deliciously brewed different flavors of Ethiopian coffee. As Ethiopia is the birthplace of coffee, you have to taste your delicious (even for me) cup of coffee in Addis Ababa here. You may also ask for “Macciato,” which is a great mix of coffee with milk. This place’s coffee is ‘black gold.’

3: Entoto Hills

Great view of Addis Ababa from the Entoto Hills

Mount Entoto is the best spot to enjoy the great scenery of Addis Ababa. Mount Entoto is also where two of the oldest Ethiopian Orthodox Christians Churches are found at – St. Raguel (Elias) and St. Mary of Entoto. Hiking in the eucalyptus tree forest is a great experience and just in general a really nice place to go, to get away from the hassle in the big, busy city of Addis Ababa. Stunning views over the city!

St Mary’s Church, Entoto Hills, Addis Ababa

St. Mary Church of Mount Entoto has a Holy Water which is widely believed in Ethiopia to have a miraculous healing power, including curing HIV.

4: Unique Dancing

Ethiopians in all ages love to dance

Ethiopians are superb dancers. Regardless of age, all Ethiopians appear to relish the chance to dance, or on a night out in Addis Ababa hit the dance floor (or turn any location into a dance floor basically.)

Night out with my Ethiopian friends seconds before we hit the dancefloor, Addis Ababa

Ethiopians love it when a foreigner joins in to dance, or at least tries to. At night – especially at the weekend – the city’s old central Piazza neighborhood becomes super alive with neon lit bars emitting booming music styles from across the country. Ask for Jambo House or Arada if you want to see locals letting their hair down in style! You can’t beat to witness the wild, eye-popping traditional iskista dance of the Amhara people.

5: Try The Local Food

Injera is Ethiopia’s national dish, a grey, spongy bread with vegetables and sauce toppings

Addis has a number of well-known traditional restaurant options, which typically also put on traditional dancing displays while you eat. My favorite Ethiopian foods is first of all the Ethiopian tibs. Tibs is a sauteed beef or goat, sometimes cooked with onion, garlic, and peppers. You can also get Tibs grilled in a clay pot with hot coals. And I really like the raw meat too..

Eating 1/2 kg raw meat, Addis Ababa

Ethiopians eat lots of raw meat and has a kind of love affair with eating raw meat combined with super spicy spices. It’s considered one of the most delicious delicacies by most people in Ethiopia. I really like the raw meat too and I ate it every day on my first and second stay in Ethiopia, without any problems at all.. Even though food experts claim you are risking salmonella and listeria infection by eating this, I just feel like getting a lot of energy from it and I enjoy it so much! But yes, there’s a small risk of course..

Sharing some raw meat with my Ethiopian friends, Addis Ababa

You might ask yourself why Ethiopian eat meat raw? An Ethiopian myth is that warriors didn’t cook meat because the smell and the smoke of cooking meat, and the light and smoke of their fires, could be seen and smelled by their opponents from far away. The Ethiopians have just continued eating it raw ever since…

That’s It For Now, Addis Ababa

After you have tried these 5 most fun things to do in Addis Ababa, you’re ready to explore the rest of Ethiopia. One of my favorite countries in the World, so whenever you have the chance to go here, GO!

Getting accepted by the Banna tribe and attending a bull jump ceremony, deep in the the Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Enjoy Ethiopia!

Gustav

gus1thego.com

Follow me on Instagram @gustavrosted


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